Відео

Your soldering opinion is not warranted. Maybe your soldering technique is lacking.

I was trained by the Navy in HRHS and when you showed that your solder wicked under the insulation, you are showing A failure in your soldering technique. That would not be allowed on Naval platforms! Solder always beats crimping hands down. Never use a crimp joint in your wiring. Crimping always, always causes the wire to deform. Deformed strands are weakened strands and will fail sooner than later. The only exception to that is crimped pins in a plug and those pins do not deform wires as much as crimps and the wires in a plug are held firm behind the plug. Nothing shakes more than a submarine underway and none of my solder joints ever fail.

Scotch locks are the only way to go for any type of electrical repair. By far and away the fastest, most reliable, and effective way to fuck up anything they come in contact with. And wire nuts are for houses. It's amazing the number of those that I have thrown in the trash. Electricians should not work on their own vehicles! Ever!

Irvin, thanks for showing the open barrel crimp process. It's amazing how many other videos that UA-cam search algorithm bring up gloss right over it I'm currently using cheap Amazon ratchet crimpers and dodgy Amazon connectors. I think it's time to stump up some cash for better quality I agree that crimping is the way to go for automotive use, especially when you can use oem style connectors

master electrician 25 years you are dead wrong!

I sort of agree, though have to disagree. only because that was WAY TO MUCH SOLDER! If you get it Just right Yes, UI will agree. But. I can see your point! Bullet connects are much easier to solder or even just cripmped conects!

So, in summary, you're saying that an unskilled solderer making a bad solder connection results in a worse connection than a crimp done properly by someone who knows how to properly use a crimper and crimp connectors.... DUH? The reverse is also true. So what have we learned here? Doing a job poorly yields poor results.... That's quite the discovery... Misleading title to video. THAT SAID, I'm glad you're teaching how to solder correctly here. 99% of those "i built a thing" videos solder VERY badly.

Before the replacement, did you have chirping noise just exactly at around 1.5k rpm and 2.1k rpm? (Not coming from the belt, I just replaced it :( )

Every circuit board on your car has 100's of solder joints that never go bad... If you do it right it will last forever.

I am a Ford tech in a certified Ford dealer, I 100% back him up on crimping over soldering, I do nothing but crimping and as a matter of fact, have had to fix soldering problems FROM FORD, by other means. Soldering is unreliable even in conditions where it isn't being flexed, the very vibrations of the engine have broken the soldered wires loose. I use close ended crimps with no insolation, and add the heat shrink myself, mostly because that's what's provided, but also because adding the heat shrink after crimping saves the heatshrink from being crushed by the crimper, and also the job ends up looking much more uniform with black heat shrink, instead of a rainbow on top of the rainbow colored wires 😅

Just spotted this video and thought I'd just comment about how some colors will screw up your night vision. Red and green preserve it the best, blue is slightly better than white. Literally why Saabs have a "night panel" model where every other dash light turns off besides I think the speedo, which is green.

Solder is much better. It just takes more time.

bro, Avenged sevenfold and a IS300... We almost the same haha, but i got the Altezza instead

Hey man do you have the link for the cam shaft pulley holding tool

OEM joins in cars are all crimp. But that is because it's the only way of constructing elaborate wiring looms buy the thousands, and manufacturers buy good quality crimp connectors. The problem with home crimping is that the qualty of connector one buys on Amazon and the like, is very poor. My experience is that it's hard to make a crimp to do it where you can't pull the wires out. Further problems are matching the crimpers to the connectors and other fittings. Often the ears intended to grip the insulation are quite long and fold in a messy way that does not grip the insulation properly. Overall I agree that crimps better for working on cars because they're easier add faster than mucking around with a soldering iron in awkward positions. But the connectors, the wire and the tool all have to match each other otherwise they can be very poor connections indeed. In an ideal world of their awesome but in the real world they are highly prone failure. Soldering is definitely awkward in a car situation but I sold it and heat shrinked join is never going to come apart. In theory the wires could snap if subjected to constant and significant movement, but that could happen with any connector and should never happen with properly secured wiring

I was a professional mechanic for a decade. You never use wire crimps. This is goofy.

What I like about soldering over crimping is that under the insulation it's not just two wires mashed together - they're physically bonded together kind of like a weld. I get what you're saying about it being brittle though. In a perfect world, couldn't all the wires be solid core so there's no weak points?

yeah I know you can solder wires especially connections catch yourself it works far better especially battery terminals

Soooo much misinformation in one video.

man i hate when ppl do a whole vlog. shits useless asf

That’s my old truck what the heck I’m from Portland Oregon

Ha HA use wire nuts all the time in my cars. No problems for over thirty years.

Don’t buy rubber wiper , buy silicone ones by PIAA. The last wiper you will ever purchase. 😏

You should have done both with same type lugs ,you failed

You would have died of a stress caused heart attack if you were old enough to see IASCA car audio events in the 1990s. I personally used a 50 watt Ungar iron with silver solder. I don't think Ungar is around anymore.

I kept on bumping into articles that 2jz needs 291ft lbs to tighten the balancer. There was no torque wrench available unless I get a 700ft lbs torque wrench. 239ft lbs sounds more manageable. I have 1.5JZ GTE

Seems it's hard to kill a urban myths. Soldering is always better than crimping. If you're not skilled at soldering I will guarantee your crimping quality will be even worse.

When I bought my 70mai dashcam with a surveillance parking cable I asked a car electrician to install it professionally by putting the cables in some of the unused slots in the fuse box. Instead he said he will solder it for 50 euros. I bolted out. If I wanted amateur work, I wouldn't have gone to the "professional" in the first place. Ultimately I connected it to my fuse box without soldering to it, and I did so with putting a button to turn it on or off, so it won't waste my battery while in the garage. 8 months later, 70mai finally issued a software update to detect the surveillance cable and not just treat it as a power cable. Not cool, selling a feature that doesn't work!

Glad to have my 2001 with no sticky dash

for over 6 decades I’ve built and flown; fixed and rotary wing UAS’s; my Dad was in Aerospace manufacturing and taught me to soldier and the use of heatshrink…. this is how I’ve handled all the electronic installs for these flying models, my car repairs, and radio installations of substantial Amps and amplification. I don’t recall any solder joints coming apart or breaks where the solder ends. That being said after watching this I’m breaking out my crimper and crimps for High amperage and voltage radio operations. My instructor in this has seen heat sources liquify solder joints so it’s widely accepted to crimp or fasten key features of these radio installations.

37lbs a pop... Damn that heavy

What’s torque spec on 1999 Lexus gs300

12:30 , "If you put these on a car then FUCK YOU!" I felt that :) great vid my guy.

I’d say that overall this video is boiling everything down to you just being lazy and wanting to take the easy road out on a project.. if someone wants quality it takes time and a brain.. yes there’s a time and place for crimping but overall soldering will overcome and outlast any crimp any day

Solder joint is not flexible but neither is crimp joint

if you solder like in that thumbnail. you should crimp lol

Working in automotive for quite a while, I've seen way too many issues with voltage sensitive items with crimps caused by voltage drops. One that I see a lot is throttle body harnesses. Some things are okay with crimps, but if it's sensitive to voltage, then solder it

Ima wait till I Manuel Swap n do it then

what's the average Mileage span for these?

This whole video has lots of good points. With that said, the author of the video is assuming that folks who solder have little to no skill. The skill level of the individual soldering will have much to do with the end result. I solder whenever possible, and crimp only when I have to. If done properly, you will not have rigid wires. I will point out that even though your solder iron was likely around the 5-600 degree range in the video, you held it on the wires far too long. When I solder clean wire, the soldering iron needs to be on the wires for less than two or three seconds at 750 to 900 degrees. (Yes, that's really hot) This will, however, ensure that no insulation is burned, and if you don't go crazy with the solder, you won't have a ton of it behind the joint like in the video. Again, all we are attempting to achieve is to close an open, join two wires, and restore the flow of electrons. This can be done many ways as you've described in the video, however... I believe that soldering will remain the most viable option when access allows. To my point, if the skill level of the person performing the repair is adequate (And I am not saying that the author of the video is in any way inadequate), then the repair will be viable. I've seen people with little skill crimp wires and not crimp properly and the wires pull right out. The issue with that is that in many spots on a vehicle, you will not get more room, nor more wire to fit in some areas without disassembling half of the vehicle. You have one chance in many instances, so skill level is a very critical factor to the situation. As mentioned, a person with a high level of skill may choose to crimp vs solder in many cases, but choose to solder vs crimp in other cases. That is all.

It’s rare to see Lexus IS300 2002/2004 in good conditions these days.

@9:54 I just picked myself up a nice brand new Klein 1005RINS but dang if I don't like those Snap On crimpers too

100% agree!

If i have to splice 2 open wire without the need for it to be detachable, i'll solder. But if it's going to be plugged and unplugged, i'll crimp.

Thanks god bless

290k on mine.

I only recently convinced my mom to stop twisting and taping joints

my fiberglass fenders didnt even include a mounting hold for the headlight and I don't feel comfortable mounting my new headlights with one screw any ideas

Wrong

There's a secret to soldering. Bad solder joints come from dirty wire, a cruddy tip, or not enough heat. Soldering is easy all day if the prep is good. And hard to impossible if it isn't.